Tsigarelli is a traditional dish of Medditeranean greens from Crete made with wild leafy greens, garlic, onions and hot paprika. Traditionally, most recipes are just greens or Swiss chard, but there’s so many similar dishes around the world that include meat that I was inspired to add some to make a simple meal one evening in the spring.
Adding goat or lamb is the perfect choice as the animals are enjoyed in the region and are well adapted to the hot, rocky environment. Crisp, tender pieces of meat with leafy greens makes a good, light meal-great for the summer when it’s hot outside and fresh greens are available.
I used a selection of wild greens from in and around the garden here as I eat a lot of them during the season, but you can use just about any leafy greens. If you don’t have any wild greens you like to eat, you could use a combination of spinach, chard and kale and it will work out fine, but a blend gives a mix of textures to the greens. If you like wild greens, purslane, lambsquarters, mallow, dandelions, watercress and amaranth are some of my favorites to use in dishes like this. In the most traditional versions, wild fennel fronds are added to the mix.
Another part of this recipe I have to mention is how the meat is cooked. In many similar, traditional goat and lamb recipes I’ve come across from around the world, the meat is often cooked twice, first by slow-cooking in liquid until very tender, twice by frying/sauteing in a pan to crisp them up after cooking. If you like tender pieces of browned, crisp meat, make sure to make a note of the technique in the recipe below-it’s a great one to know for slow-cooking cuts of any meat. Shoulder is probably my favorite, but just about any cut of meat can work-even lean leg roasts.
This recipe is by Chef Alan Bergo, the Forager Chef. A chef from Minnesota, Alan is a culinary industry veteran, former executive chef of acclaimed Lucia’s Restaurant, and the Salt Cellar. Author of The Forager Chef’s Book of Flora, he’s one of the most respected voices in the world of foraging and wild food. He’s best known as the founder of Forager Chef, his website focused on wild ingredients that reaches millions of readers each year. Learn more about Chef Alan and his hunt for mushrooms, wild and obscure foods at foragerchef.com.
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